It seems to run very well, but when it slows down the motor and belt wobble. Join Date Jan Posts New old Craftsman Table Saw questions Hi all, At the suggestion of one of the forum members, I decided to seek out a Craftsman model table saw, model number The blade was slightly off kilter so we adjusted the trunnions. Here's an old picture of it set up with a long auxiliary fence I needed for something I don't remember.Remember Me? What's New? of 3 1 2 3 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 15 of Thread: New old Craftsman Table Saw questions. The wings were terrible so I just replaced them with 3/4" MDF panels mounted to oak frames with bolt holes in the right spots. I just checked it front and rear every time I moved it until I could afford an after market fence. Once all that was done the machine really smoothed out but, the fence would no be cured of clamping down out of line. I also added a lower shelf to the stand and dropped a 90# sack of redi-crete wrapped in plastic there. I went overboard and added machined pulleys and a link belt as the vibration was causing me fouled cuts. I was able to make zero clearance inserts out of laminate flooring scraps by milling a rabbet around the outer edge at the router table. A lot of the Emerson machines use a metal throat plate with a thin lip. Like you I added PALs after spending hours trying to get those table mounted trunnions aligned. I'll post a few pics later, didn't get any before I took it apart to get it in my car to take home.Ĭongrats! I also started with a 1970's Emerson/Craftsman and it served me well for years. Plus, being a bit lower for me wouldn't hurt. It's on casters but I'm going to make a retractable caster set for it. Note that I want good sharp blades that can be resharpened, not cheap throw away blades. When I get the money, the will be added to my tool box. Not sure on a crosscut blade though, thinking one from Freud in the 40 tooth range. Like cutting metal with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder, take a little on each pass and it'll get through it.
Nor do I have any plans to cut that in the foreseeable future.
#Old craftsman table saw throat plate screw full
So, should I get a cheaper full kerf to see how it runs before spending the money on a good blade for ripping or just go with the full kerf blade? I know it's not gonna be able to rip 2 1/2 inch hardwood on one pass. Looking at blades, thinking the Freud thin kerf 24 tooth ripping blade would be a good fit but also seen posts that people use standard kerf ripping blades without a problem. In the meantime, I'll align the blade with a block of wood and cut some push sticks for it. Got a PALS on the way but the way the mail is running, might be a month before I get it. No money right now for a new fence so I'll tune it up and see what happens. Seen quite a few threads saying replace fence, one guy on another says he cleaned it up, polished the contact points, adjusted it and it moved smooth and locked tight. Even with the rust, the miter gauge slides smoother than the new saws I looked at, with a lot less slop. Table has some surface rust, nothing a wire brush can't take care of,v then s couple coats of wax. Gonna start getting it cleaned up and put back together this weekend.
Well, it's a better saw than anything I could've afforded new, think under $300. See the 113 models allot, from horrible to good saw when taken care of. Got an old Craftsman Table saw through Craigslist, guy had a moving sale.
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